Types of Leather: Grades, Hides and Finishes Explained

Leather is described in three ways: the animal it comes from (cowhide, lambskin, goatskin), the grade, meaning which layer of the hide is used (full-grain, top-grain, split, bonded), and the finish (aniline, nappa, suede, nubuck, distressed). This guide explains each type of leather, how they compare, and which work best for jackets.

The Layers of a Hide

A hide has two main layers. The outer grain layer is the strongest, with tightly packed fibres and the natural surface pattern. Below it, the corium has looser, more open fibres. Tanneries often split thick hides into two sheets: the top sheet keeps the grain; the lower sheet, called a split, becomes suede or is coated to look like grain leather. Which layer a piece of leather comes from decides its grade.

Leather Grades

Grade	What it is	Strength	Ages
Full-grain	The whole grain layer, unsanded, with natural marks	Highest	Develops a rich patina
Top-grain	Grain layer lightly sanded and finished for an even look	High	Softens, less patina
Corrected grain / "genuine leather"	Lower grain or split with an artificial grain pressed and coated on	Medium	Can wear through the coating
Split leather	The lower layer of a split hide; used for suede or coated leather	Lower	Suede softens; coated splits can peel
Bonded leather	Leather scraps glued to a backing and coated	Lowest	Peels and cracks quickly

"Genuine leather" means real leather, but on a label it often marks one of the lower grades. Full-grain and top-grain are what to look for in a jacket.

Types of Leather by Animal

• Cowhide: thick, tough and widely available. Stiff at first, it softens with wear. The classic choice for biker and riding jackets.
• Calfskin: from young cattle; finer grain and softer than cowhide, used for smart jackets, shoes and bags.
• Lambskin: the softest and lightest leather, smooth with a slight sheen. Comfortable from day one but marks more easily.
• Sheepskin: soft and fairly light; as shearling it keeps the wool on for warmth.
• Goatskin: light but strong, with a pebbled grain; used in flight jackets and gloves.
• Buffalo: thick and heavily grained, rugged and very durable.
• Horse: horsehide is dense and hard-wearing; the shell cordovan cut from the hindquarters is one of the most expensive leathers, mostly used for shoes.
• Kangaroo: very thin for its strength, used in sports shoes, gloves and some motorcycle racing suits.
• Exotic leathers: ostrich, snake, crocodile and others are rare, costly and mostly used for small goods. Many "crocodile" jackets are cowhide embossed with a pattern.

Shop the Men Stylish Cowhide Cafe Racer Leather Jacket →

Shop the Women Cropped White Real Lambskin Biker Jacket →

Which Part of the Hide?

Leather also varies across a single hide. The back and butt area (the bend) is the thickest and most even, and makes the best panels. The shoulder is slightly softer with more natural creases. The belly is thinner and stretchier, so good makers use it for less visible parts. A tannery may sell a whole hide, a side (half a hide), or just these cuts.

Leather Finishes

• Aniline: dyed right through with no surface coating, so the natural grain shows. The most natural look, but it stains easily.
• Semi-aniline: aniline leather with a thin protective coat; a good balance of look and protection.
• Pigmented (protected): coated with a coloured layer for even colour and stain resistance; common on corrected grain.
• Nappa: a soft, smooth, full-grain finish, usually on lambskin, sheepskin or calfskin, like the black sheep nappa leather coat.
• Suede: the inner side of the hide (often a split), buffed to a soft nap. See what suede is.
• Nubuck: the outer grain side, lightly sanded to a short velvety nap. Stronger than suede but marks with water in the same way.
• Distressed and waxed: finished to look worn in, or treated with wax or oil for a rugged, slightly water-resistant surface.
• Pull-up (oiled): oil- or wax-rich leather that lightens where it's bent or stretched, giving a vintage look as it's worn.
• Burnished and antique: rubbed or two-toned so edges and creases look darker, like an older piece.
• Bicast: a split with a polyurethane layer on top; glossy at first but it can peel, so it isn't used for good jackets.
• Patent: coated to a high gloss; used for shoes and bags rather than jackets.
• Embossed: pressed with a pattern such as crocodile or ostrich.
• Shearling: sheepskin with the wool left on, for linings and collars.

Suede vs Nubuck

Both have a soft napped surface, but nubuck is made from the outer grain side, sanded lightly, while suede comes from the inner side or a split. That makes nubuck stronger and slightly smoother. Care is the same for both: brush them, protect them from water, and keep them away from cream conditioners.

Chrome-Tanned vs Vegetable-Tanned

Most jacket leather is chrome-tanned: fast to make, soft, light and water-resistant. Vegetable-tanned leather uses plant tannins, takes weeks, and is firmer and develops a strong patina; it's used more for belts, bags and boots. More on how tanning changed is in our history of leather.

Real Leather vs Faux Leather

	Real leather	Faux leather (PU or PVC)
Made from	Tanned animal hide	Plastic coating on fabric
Breathes	Yes	Little or not at all
Lasts	Many years; can be repaired	Often peels or cracks within a few years
With age	Softens and develops a patina	Wears and flakes
Care	Clean and condition	Wipe clean; no conditioning
Price	Higher	Lower

To tell them apart, see our guide to spotting a real leather jacket. Our jackets are real leather unless the product title says faux.

Which Type of Leather Is Best for a Jacket?

You want	Choose
Toughness, riding, a jacket for decades	Full-grain cowhide or buffalo
Softness and a smart, slim fit	Lambskin or nappa
Warmth	Sheepskin or shearling
Light but strong, flight style	Goatskin
A relaxed, soft look for dry days	Suede

Shop the Men Black Sheepskin Biker Leather Jacket →

For everything else to check before you buy, see our leather jacket buying guide.

Caring for Different Types of Leather

Smooth leathers (cowhide, lambskin, sheepskin, goatskin) are cleaned with a barely damp cloth and conditioned every few months. Suede and nubuck are brushed and protected from water, never creamed. Aniline leather stains easily, so blot spills at once. Full steps are in our guide to cleaning a leather jacket.

Sizes and Custom Options

Every jacket we sell is made to order, so you can have it made the way you want:

• Sizes: XS to 4XL or 5XL, depending on the style.
• Custom size: send us your measurements and we'll make the jacket to fit you.
• Custom colour: ask for the jacket in another leather colour.
• Leather type: choose lambskin, sheepskin, cowhide or suede.
• Lining and shearling: change the lining, or ask for real shearling instead of the standard faux shearling.

To order a custom jacket, see our custom order process (free design consultation) or contact us with the product link and the leather you want.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many types of leather are there?

There are four main grades (full-grain, top-grain, split or corrected, and bonded), many animal types (cowhide, lambskin, sheepskin, goatskin and more), and many finishes (aniline, nappa, suede, nubuck and others).

What is the best type of leather?

Full-grain is the strongest and ages best. For jackets, full-grain or top-grain cowhide is toughest and lambskin is softest.

What is the difference between full-grain and top-grain leather?

Full-grain keeps the whole natural surface; top-grain is lightly sanded for a more even look. Full-grain is stronger and develops more patina.

Is genuine leather real leather?

Yes, but the term often means a lower grade made from the inner layers of the hide, with an artificial grain on top.

What is the softest type of leather?

Lambskin, especially with a nappa finish.

What is the difference between suede and nubuck?

Suede comes from the inner side or a split; nubuck is the outer grain side sanded to a nap. Nubuck is stronger.

What is the most expensive leather?

Exotic leathers such as crocodile and ostrich, and shell cordovan from horsehide, are among the most expensive.

What is the cheapest type of leather?

Bonded leather, made from glued scraps. It peels quickly, so avoid it for a jacket.

What is shiny leather called?

Patent leather has a high-gloss coating. Nappa and lambskin have a softer, natural sheen.

Which leather is the most breathable?

Full-grain aniline leather, because it has no plastic coating on the surface. Suede and nubuck also breathe well.

How long does real leather last?

Full-grain and top-grain leather can last decades with regular cleaning and conditioning. Bonded and bicast leather can peel within a few years.

Which leather is best for a jacket?

Cowhide for toughness and riding, lambskin for softness, sheepskin for warmth, and suede for a relaxed look.