How to Tell if a Leather Jacket Is Real: 8 Checks and Faux vs Real
Top Guru Jackets
To tell if a leather jacket is real, look at the grain (real leather has uneven pores and small marks), press it (real leather wrinkles softly like skin), check a cut edge (rough and fibrous, with no fabric backing), smell it (leather, not plastic), and read the label. No single test is certain on its own, so use several together. This guide covers each check, the tests to skip, what labels really mean, how to check leather trousers and jackets before you buy online, and real vs faux leather side by side.
Quick Checks at a Glance
| Check | Real leather | Faux leather (PU or PVC) |
|---|---|---|
| Grain and pores | Uneven pores, small scars and creases; no two areas look the same | A perfectly even, repeating pattern |
| Press with a finger | Wrinkles softly, then slowly relaxes | Stays smooth or dents and springs back like rubber |
| Cut edge or seam allowance | Rough, fibrous and the same colour through | Smooth and even; a woven fabric backing shows |
| Smell | Warm, earthy leather smell | Plastic or chemical smell, or none |
| Feel | Warms up in your hands; slightly supple | Stays cool and feels plasticky |
| Weight | Heavier for its size | Lighter |
| Price | Higher; reflects the hide and work | Much lower |
| Label | Names the hide: cowhide, lambskin, sheepskin, goatskin | PU, PVC, "vegan leather", "leatherette", "pleather" |
How to Tell if a Leather Jacket Is Real: 8 Checks
1. Read the Label
A real leather jacket usually names the hide, such as "100% lambskin" or "cowhide". Words like PU, PVC, polyurethane, "vegan leather", "leatherette", "pleather" or "man-made materials" mean it's faux. "Genuine leather" is real leather, but often a lower grade; "bonded leather" is scraps glued together. The meaning of each grade is in our guide to leather types.
2. Look at the Grain
Real leather has pores of different sizes, faint lines and tiny marks, and the pattern changes across the jacket. Faux leather is printed or embossed, so the pattern repeats exactly. Look closely at large panels like the back.
3. Press and Pinch It
Press a fingertip into the leather or pinch a fold. Real leather wrinkles and creases like skin and slowly relaxes; faux leather stays smooth, or dents and springs back.
4. Check an Edge or Seam
Look inside a pocket, under the collar, or at a seam allowance inside the lining. Real leather has a rough, fibrous edge that's the same colour through. Faux leather has a clean, even edge, often with a woven fabric layer underneath.
5. Smell It
Real leather has a rich, earthy smell. Faux leather smells of plastic or chemicals. A strong new-jacket smell can mask it, so smell an inside seam.
6. Feel the Temperature and Weight
Real leather warms up quickly in your hands and feels heavier and denser for its size. Faux leather stays cool and feels lighter.
7. Look at the Back and Lining
If you can see the back of the leather (inside a pocket or at the hem), real leather looks suede-like and fibrous; faux leather shows fabric mesh.
8. Check the Price and the Seller
A real leather jacket can't be made for the price of a fast-fashion jacket. A very cheap "leather" jacket is almost always faux, bonded or a very low grade. Buy from sellers who say clearly which hide and finish they use. To see what goes into the price, read why leather jackets are expensive.
Shop the Men Black Classic Real Leather Biker Jacket →
Tests to Skip
- The burn test: holding a flame to leather damages it, can be dangerous, and isn't reliable on finished leather. Don't do it.
- The water-drop test: many real leathers are finished so water beads on them too, and on aniline leather or suede it can leave a mark.
- Cutting or scratching: it damages the jacket for an answer the edge check can give.
How to Check Leather Before Buying Online
When you can't touch the jacket or trousers, ask the seller:
- Which hide is it (cowhide, lambskin, sheepskin, goatskin) and which grade (full-grain, top-grain)?
- Can they send a close-up photo of the grain and of a seam or cut edge inside?
- Is the whole garment leather, or only the front panels? Some cheap jackets use faux leather on the sleeves or back.
- What is the lining made of, and are the hardware and stitching described?
The same checks work for leather trousers, vests and coats. For trousers, also look at the inside of the waistband and the hem, where the leather's back is easiest to see. See our men's leather pants buying guide.
Shop the Men's Black Real Sheepskin Fashion Leather Pant →
Real Leather vs Faux Leather
| Real leather | Faux leather | |
|---|---|---|
| Made from | Tanned animal hide | Plastic (PU or PVC) on a fabric base; some newer types use plant materials |
| Lifespan | Many years, often decades; can be repaired | Often peels or cracks within a few years |
| Comfort | Breathes and shapes to you | Can feel hot and sticky; doesn't mould |
| With age | Softens and develops a patina | Wears, flakes or peels |
| Care | Clean and condition every few months | Wipe clean; no conditioning |
| Water | Handles light rain; dry slowly | Usually water-resistant |
| Price | Higher | Lower |
Which to choose? Real leather if you want a jacket that lasts for years, breathes and improves with wear. Faux leather if you want the look for a low price, don't use animal products, or want an occasional or trend piece.
Caring for Real and Faux Leather
Real leather: wipe with a barely damp cloth, condition every few months, dry slowly if wet. Faux leather: wipe with mild soapy water and keep it away from heat, which can make the coating crack; it doesn't need conditioner. Full steps are in our leather jacket cleaning guide.
Our Leather
Our jackets, coats, vests and trousers are made from real leather (lambskin, sheepskin, cowhide or suede) unless the product title says faux or PU. Shearling and fur collars and linings are faux as standard, with real shearling available on request.
Sizes and Custom Options
Every jacket we sell is made to order, so you can have it made the way you want:
- Sizes: XS to 4XL or 5XL, depending on the style. See our size guide.
- Custom size: send us your measurements and we'll make the jacket to fit you.
- Custom colour: ask for the jacket in another leather colour.
- Leather type: choose lambskin, sheepskin, cowhide or suede.
- Lining and shearling: change the lining, or ask for real shearling instead of the standard faux shearling.
To order a custom jacket, see our custom order process (free design consultation) or contact us with the product link and the changes you want.
See every style in our men's leather jackets and women's leather jackets collections.
Frequently Asked Questions
How can you tell if a leather jacket is real?
Check the label for the hide name, look for uneven pores, press it to see soft wrinkles, check a cut edge for rough fibres and no fabric backing, and smell it.
Can fake leather look like real leather?
Yes, good faux leather can look very similar from a distance. The edge, the repeating grain pattern and the smell give it away up close.
Is "genuine leather" real leather?
Yes, but the term often means a lower grade made from the inner layers of the hide with an artificial grain on top.
How can I tell real leather without damaging it?
Use the label, grain, press, edge, smell and weight checks. Skip burn and cut tests.
Does fake leather peel?
Often, yes. The plastic coating on PU and bonded leather can crack and peel, especially with heat and age. Real leather doesn't peel.
Which lasts longer, real or faux leather?
Real leather, by many years, if it's cared for.
Is faux leather waterproof?
Most faux leather is water-resistant, but the seams and backing aren't waterproof.
How do I check leather trousers before buying?
Ask which hide and grade they are, and look at the inside of the waistband or hem, where real leather's rough back is easy to see.
Can I order a custom leather jacket?
Yes. Every jacket is made to order, and you can ask for a custom size, colour, leather type or lining. Send us the product link and the changes you want.

