Rock and Roll Leather Jackets: Icons, History and How to Wear One
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The rock and roll leather jacket is a black leather motorcycle jacket: an asymmetric zip, wide lapels, a belted waist and plenty of hardware. It started as riding gear in the late 1920s, became a symbol of rebellion through Marlon Brando in 1953, and was then taken up by every generation of rock musicians, from Elvis and the Beatles to the Ramones, Joan Jett and metal bands. This guide covers the history, the musicians who made it famous, the main styles, and how to wear the look today without it looking like a costume.
Where the Rock and Roll Leather Jacket Came From
In 1928, Irving Schott designed a leather motorcycle jacket with a diagonal front zip and named it the Perfecto. It was sold through a Harley-Davidson dealer in New York for $5.50. The asymmetric zip let the jacket overlap at the chest to block wind, and the belted waist stopped it riding up on the bike.
In 1953, Marlon Brando wore a black biker jacket as gang leader Johnny in The Wild One. The film turned a piece of riding gear into a symbol of youth rebellion, and young people who had never ridden a motorcycle began wearing one. Rock and roll arrived at the same moment, and the two became linked. For the longer story of leather clothing, see our history of leather.
Rock and Roll Leather Jackets Through the Decades
| Era | Who wore it | The look |
|---|---|---|
| 1950s | Gene Vincent, Elvis Presley | Black biker jackets and full black leather on stage |
| Early 1960s | The Beatles in Hamburg | Black leather jackets and trousers before their suits |
| 1968 | Elvis Presley | A black leather suit for his televised Comeback Special |
| 1970s punk | The Ramones, The Clash, Patti Smith, Debbie Harry | Black bikers worn with ripped jeans and T-shirts as a uniform |
| Late 1970s | Joan Jett, Suzi Quatro | Black leather jackets and jumpsuits, bringing the look to women in rock |
| Late 1970s metal | Judas Priest's Rob Halford | Studded leather, spikes and chains, which became heavy metal's look |
| 1980s pop | Michael Jackson, George Michael | Jackson's red "Thriller" jacket (1983); George Michael's black biker in "Faith" (1987) |
| 1990s to today | Grunge, indie and rock bands | Worn-in black bikers over hoodies, band T-shirts and flannel shirts |
Punk: The Biker as a Uniform
The Ramones wore black biker jackets, ripped jeans, T-shirts and trainers on and off stage, and that combination became the standard punk look. Joe Strummer of The Clash and Bruce Springsteen on his mid-1970s tours wore the same kind of jacket, and it spread from New York and London to the rest of the world.
Women in Leather
Patti Smith, Debbie Harry, Joan Jett and Suzi Quatro made leather part of women's rock style in the 1970s. Suzi Quatro, who often performed in a leather jumpsuit, later played the bass-playing Leather Tuscadero on the TV show Happy Days. Joan Jett's black leather jacket became as much a part of her image as her guitar.
Heavy Metal: Studs and Spikes
In the late 1970s, Rob Halford of Judas Priest started performing in studded black leather, and the look became the uniform of heavy metal. Studs, spikes, chains and patches on a black biker or vest are still the clearest sign of metal style. See our studded leather jackets.
Pop Stars and Colour
In the 1980s, leather jackets moved into pop. Michael Jackson's red leather jacket in "Thriller", designed by Deborah Landis with a V shape to make his shoulders look broader, is one of the most copied jackets in music. Our celebrity-inspired leather jackets include styles based on famous film and music jackets.
Why Rock Musicians Chose Leather
- It signalled rebellion. After The Wild One, a black leather jacket meant you didn't follow the rules.
- It worked on stage. Black leather catches stage lights and looks sharp in photos.
- It was tough. It survived touring, crowds and years of wear, and looked better as it aged.
- It was a uniform. Bands and fans could show they belonged to the same scene.
Rock and Roll Leather Jacket Styles
The Classic Black Biker
The core rock jacket: black leather, asymmetric zip, wide snap-down lapels, zip pockets and a belt. Choose this if you want one jacket that covers the whole look. Browse men's biker jackets or read our men's biker jacket guide.
Shop the Edgy Men's Black Leather Biker Punk Jacket →
The Studded Jacket
Studs on the lapels, shoulders or back give a biker the punk or metal edge. Keep the rest of the outfit plain so the studs stand out.
Shop the Women's Studded Leather Brando Jacket →
The Coloured Biker
Red, blue or white leather is the pop and glam side of rock. A coloured biker works best with black or denim and very little else. This blue biker is inspired by Elvis Presley's jacket in the film Speedway.
Shop the Elvis Presley Speedway Blue Biker Leather Jacket →
The Leather Vest
Worn over a T-shirt or under an open shirt, often covered in patches or studs, the leather vest is part of the biker and metal look. See our punk leather jackets for more studded styles.
Shop the Men Edgy Black Studded Genuine Leather Biker Punk Vest →
Women's styles are in our women's biker jackets and women's celebrity jackets collections, and our women's biker jacket guide covers fit and styling.
How to Wear a Rock and Roll Leather Jacket Today
- Punk: black biker, plain or band T-shirt, slim black or ripped jeans, black boots or canvas trainers.
- Classic rock: black or brown biker, white T-shirt, straight blue jeans, boots.
- Metal: studded biker or vest, black T-shirt, black jeans, heavy boots.
- Grunge: worn-in biker over a hoodie or flannel shirt, loose jeans, boots.
- Women's rock: cropped biker over a slip dress, mini skirt or high-waisted jeans, with ankle boots.
- Smart rock: black biker over a black shirt or fine knit with black trousers and Chelsea boots, for a dinner or gig.
Keep it to one or two statement pieces. A studded jacket, leather trousers, chains and spiked boots all at once looks like a costume. For more on fit, weather and occasions, read when to wear a leather jacket.
Caring for a Rock and Roll Jacket
A biker jacket is meant to look lived-in, but cracked or dried-out leather isn't the same as a good patina. Wipe it down, condition it once or twice a year, hang it on a wide hanger and keep it away from heaters. Check studs and snaps now and then, and tighten any that work loose. Our leather jacket cleaning guide covers the details.
Sizes and Custom Options
Every jacket we sell is made to order, so you can have it made the way you want:
- Sizes: XS to 4XL or 5XL, depending on the style. See our size guide.
- Custom size: send us your measurements and we'll make the jacket to fit you.
- Custom colour: ask for the jacket in another leather colour.
- Leather type: choose lambskin, sheepskin, cowhide or suede.
- Lining and shearling: change the lining, or ask for real shearling instead of the standard faux shearling.
To order a custom jacket, see our custom order process (free design consultation) or contact us with the product link and the changes you want.
See all our men's leather jackets and women's leather jackets.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is a rock and roll leather jacket?
A black leather motorcycle (biker) jacket with an asymmetric zip, wide lapels, zip pockets and a belt, often with studs. It is the jacket most linked with rock, punk and metal.
Why are leather jackets linked to rock and roll?
After Marlon Brando made the biker jacket a symbol of rebellion in 1953, rock musicians from Elvis to the Ramones adopted it, and fans copied them.
What leather jacket did the Ramones wear?
Black leather biker jackets with an asymmetric zip, worn with ripped jeans, T-shirts and trainers.
What jacket did Marlon Brando wear in The Wild One?
A black leather motorcycle jacket with an asymmetric zip, in the style of the Schott Perfecto.
Who made studded leather part of heavy metal?
Rob Halford of Judas Priest, who began wearing studded black leather on stage in the late 1970s.
Can a rock leather jacket be worn every day?
Yes. A plain black biker without heavy studs works with jeans and a T-shirt for everyday wear.
Can I order a custom rock leather jacket?
Yes. Every jacket is made to order, and you can ask for a custom size, colour, leather type or lining. Send us the product link and the changes you want.