Shearling Jackets: What They Are, How They're Made and Their History
Top Guru Jackets
A shearling jacket is a leather jacket made from sheepskin with the wool left on, worn with the wool facing in for warmth and showing at the collar and cuffs. It started as practical gear for pilots flying in freezing open cockpits and became one of the classic winter jackets. This guide covers what a shearling jacket is, how shearling is made, where the style comes from, the main types today and how to choose and care for one.
What Is a Shearling Jacket?
Shearling is a sheepskin or lambskin that has been tanned with the wool still attached. One side is the skin, which becomes the outside of the jacket as suede or smooth leather; the other side is the wool, which becomes the lining. Because the warmth comes from the same piece of hide, a shearling jacket is warm without a separate padded lining. For the difference between the words sheepskin and shearling, see sheepskin vs. shearling.
How Are Shearling Coats and Jackets Made?
- Selecting the skins: sheepskins or lambskins are chosen for even wool and a clean skin side.
- Tanning with the wool on: the hide is tanned so the skin becomes soft, lasting leather while the wool stays attached.
- Shearing the wool: the wool is sheared to an even depth so it feels and looks uniform, usually no more than a couple of inches.
- Finishing the skin side: the outside is finished as suede or as a smooth leather surface, sometimes waxed on flight-style jackets.
- Cutting and sewing: several skins are matched and sewn together, which is why many shearling jackets have visible panels and seams.
A Short History of the Shearling Jacket
| When | What happened |
|---|---|
| Before aviation | Sheepskin with the wool on was worn for warmth in cold climates long before it was tailored into jackets. |
| 1921 | US Army test pilot Lt. John A. Macready set an altitude record in April 1921 wearing wool-lined flying gear, showing how well sheepskin handled extreme cold. |
| 1926 | Leslie Irvin set up a company in Britain making sheepskin flying jackets. Irvin became the main supplier of flying jackets to the Royal Air Force for most of the Second World War. |
| 1930s | The B-3 sheepskin bomber jacket was introduced for American bomber crews flying at high altitude in unheated aircraft. |
| Second World War | Demand was so high that subcontractors helped make RAF jackets, which led to slight differences in design and color between them. |
| After 1945 | Military flight jackets moved to nylon and other synthetics, and shearling jackets became civilian winter wear. |
| Today | Flight-inspired shearling jackets sit alongside shearling bikers, cropped jackets and long coats for men and women. |
The Main Types of Shearling Jacket
B-3 Bomber
The heaviest classic: a short leather body, a very wide shearling collar that closes with straps, and a strong front zip. It is the jacket most people picture when they hear "shearling flight jacket."
Shop the Men's Brown B3 Flight Airforce Sheepskin Bomber Jacket →
RAF Flying Jacket
Based on the British wartime flying jacket, usually with panelled or two-tone leather and a wide collar.
Shop the Men's Brown RAF Aviator Flight Shearling Sheepskin Leather Jacket →
Women's Aviator and Cropped Styles
Women's shearling jackets often shorten the flight shape into a cropped or fitted aviator, which pairs well with high-waisted jeans and trousers. Browse all women's shearling jackets.
Shop the Women's Black RAF B3 Sheepskin Shearling Aviator Leather Jacket →
Shearling Bikers and Everyday Jackets
These use the biker or trucker cut with a shearling collar and lining. They are lighter to wear than a B-3 and easier to style for the city. See the full range of men's shearling jackets.
Long Shearling Coats
For the coldest weather, long coats and hooded flight parkas such as the B-7 add length and, in some styles, a hood. Our shearling coat guide covers them in detail, and the men's sheepskin coat collection sorts them by length.
Shop the Men's Black Long Shearling Sheepskin Coat with Fur Collar →
Why Shearling Jackets Are Still Popular
- Warmth from one layer: the wool lining is part of the hide, so the jacket is warm without extra padding.
- The collar: a wide shearling collar can be turned up against the wind, which is why flight jackets were built this way.
- A look that ages well: the leather softens and creases with wear, and the shape has changed little in almost a century.
- Range: the same idea works as a heavy B-3, a city biker, a cropped women's jacket or a long winter coat.
Real and Faux Shearling at Top Guru Jackets
Our jackets are made to order in real leather unless the product title says faux, and "genuine sheepskin" in a product description refers to the leather. The shearling collars, linings and trims are faux by default, and real shearling is available on request, so mention it when you order.
How to Choose a Shearling Jacket
- Warmth and length: a waist-length jacket suits daily wear and driving; a long coat suits real cold and time outdoors.
- Fit over layers: shearling is thick, so check the chest measurement against a winter coat you already own, not a light jacket.
- Color: brown is the classic flight-jacket color; black looks sharper in the city; two-tone styles follow the RAF look.
- Size: most styles come in XS to 4XL or 5XL, and custom sizing is available if you sit between sizes.
Caring for a Shearling Jacket
Never put a shearling jacket in a washing machine. Hang it on a broad hanger, let it dry naturally at room temperature if it gets wet, and keep it away from radiators. Brush the wool gently to keep it full, and use a specialist leather or shearling cleaner for stains.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is a shearling jacket?
A jacket made from sheepskin or lambskin tanned with the wool on, with the wool worn on the inside as a lining and showing at the collar.
How are shearling coats made?
The skins are tanned with the wool attached, the wool is sheared to an even depth, the skin side is finished as suede or smooth leather, and several skins are sewn together into the coat.
Where does the shearling flight jacket come from?
From early military aviation. Leslie Irvin set up his company in Britain in 1926 and became the main supplier of RAF flying jackets for most of the Second World War, and the American B-3 was introduced in the 1930s for bomber crews.
Are your shearling jackets real shearling?
The outer is real leather unless the title says faux. Shearling collars, linings and trims are faux by default, and real shearling is available on request.